Katherine 20 August 2013

Two gorges cruise this morning - wonderful. Tour guide Dave had a real dry sense of humour, while being very informative. When asked if the white breasted cormorant near the bank was a penguin he only hesitated a microsecond before replying "Yes, a beautiful example of the Tropical Penguin." before setting everyone that didn't get the joke straight.

The cruise was in two stages as there is a big rock bar separating the two canyons (there are similar bars between each of the any canyons - I'm thinking he said there were 15 - which is what holds the water in them between wet seasons) and you need to disembark and walk 600 meters to get to the next boat. The whole exercise is repeated in reverse on the way back tough Dave said we didn't have to walk backwards across the rocks :-) Not very strenuous as it is mostly board walks or steps, but some of the Olympian specimens on the tour (and especially in the party of 60 from the Ghan which we met at the halfway point on the way back) still struggled.

Rock art at the halfway point

 Parks an Wildlife check the canyon system continuously for salt water crocs to make sure that swimming and canoeing is safe. According to Dave, the final test is to send a couple of pommy tourists through in a leaky canoe, and if they make it the tourist season can begin. His words, my laughter.

Salt Water Croc Trap

Some of the beaches along the way are sign posted warning that they are fresh water crocodile nesting areas, and there is a $5000 fine if you walk on them. The freshies lay their eggs in the sand and then abandon them, so a single footstep can wipe out the whole nest. The eggs are up against it anyway as they will only hatch if the temperature is between 30 and 36 degrees. If it is between 30 and 32 all the hatchlings are female, 33 to 34 and they can be either male or female, and 35 to 36 they are all male. Above 36 degrees and you've got poached eggs (another Daveism).

Croc tracks in  the sand

The second canyon is the more spectacular of the two and if you've ever seen any promotional photo's of the area they are probably from here. It is possible to cruise the third canyon as well if you have the time and the money, but we were very happy with two. Simply spectacular scenery.

We even got to see our first fresh water croc on the way back down.

At the end of the ride Dave, being the consummate proffessional that he is offered the traditional aboriginal parting of "Buna Buna" (or words to that effect) wich traslate roughly to 'until we meet again'. He then followed up with a traditional Orstralian one of "Git orf me boat!". Told you he was a professional...




Had a meander round the Katherine museum after that, but it was a hard slog when there were 67 gazillion, well at least forty, prep school kids and their screaming teachers wizzing around at the same time. Still, very interesting (I never knew Katherine was bombed by the Japenese during WW2) and worth a visit. Just try to avoid school excursions.

Next time we are up here we will do the canyons by canoe, do the tour of Springvale Homestead and visit the hot springs.
Topped up the pantry and booze supplies in Woolies as we are heading off to Litchfield National Park tomorrow.